Melanau Culture

Melanau Tallhouse The Melanau people make up 5.8% of Sarawak 's population, mostly living in the central coastal region. The Malanaus used to live close to sea and as a result were exposed to many pirate attacks, hence they built sturdy houses some 40ft above ground. Sago is the staple diet of these people, unlike other natives who lived on rice. Originally grown wild, the sago palm was later cultivated by the Melanaus. The process of making sago flour can be seen at the Melanau tallhouse at the cultural centre. Visitors may also savour some of the sago delights that are produced there. Although most Melanaus are now Muslims or Christians, their forefathers' religion was Liko, which means 'people of the river'. The religion advocated that life and environment are one and believed in the spritual world. The Melanaus used effigies of sickness spirits in healing processes called berbavoh and beravun. the interior. dizzying heights of up to 40ft above ground. Not for those suffering from vertigo The Kaul is the most important ceremony for the Melanaus and is held at the end of the Northeast monsoon (and that would be in the 3rd week of April). The Kaul used to be regarded as a religious annual ceremony to appease the spirits of all surrounding the people - the sea, the forest, the land and the farm. Today, it is more a tradition where families return for the year's reunion. The end of the monsoon marks the beginning of the Melanau calender as many of these people are farmers and fishermen. In the past, Kaul was held at the beginning of the month of Pengejin (in March). Pengejin in the local Melanau language refers to the fishermen's slippery hands after landing fish. This is also the month when the Melanau move upriver to fish for eels. Jekan Jin means freshwater eels in Melanau, hence the word Pengejin. fishtraps, adze, axes - everyday tools used It used to be a part of the ceremony where every household prepares food offering for the spirits as well as the people attending the Kaul. On the day of the Kaul, the seraheng (a decorated flat basket) is filled with offering for spirits and raised on a bamboo pole. After a session of chants and incantations, the seraheng is transported by boat downriver towards the estuary. A gong orchestra accompanies the fleet of decorated boats, playing in tune with the chants of the ritual leader (Bapa Kaul). The ritual leader would invite spirits to join the villagers for a meal. When the boat reaches the estuary, the seraheng on the bamboo pole is planted on the riverbank. The offerings are placed on the floor next to the seraheng. The aged, sick and the young gather close round the seraheng in hope that when the ritual leader pours water over the offerings and sprays of water will also wash away their misfortunes, and bad omen will also be 'washed' away. Sago flour Food brought from all the households for the ceremony is then served to everyone at the ceremony. Leftovers are always left at the Seraheng. During the festival, traditional games and the giant swing called the 'Tibou' is set up for those brave enough to try. Usually the young men would particpate. Visitors to the Melanau Tallhouse at the cultural centre can also try the tibou located in the grounds next to the house. The end of the feast, also marks the end of the Kaul ceremony. For more on the culture and Melanau people, click to www.lamindana.com . (Lamin Dana means 'traditional house' in Melanau). Take the opportunity for a homestay at the Melanau tallhouse and partake in the daily activities of the local people. Help the Melanau retain their culture by showing an interest in their activities and perhaps one day the younger generation may see a better future instead of pursuing a generic MTV culture.

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Serikin Street

Many visitors to Kuching are unaware that Indonesia is actually only one hour’s drive away from Kuching and there is a little trading post right at the Sarawak-Indonesian border called Serikin. On weekdays, this little hamlet is a sleepy hollow where villagers and farmers go about their daily lives like any others, but come Saturday and Sunday, the whole place is transformed into a huge bustling market with practically all the customers coming all the way from Kuching. "Main Street" Serikin, with stalls on both side of the road Nobody knows for sure how or when this tiny and sleepy little hamlet suddenly mushroomed to become one of the top hunting ground for weekend bargainers from Kuching and beyond. Located in the direction of the Kuching – Batu Kawa- Bau road about an hour’s drive, and almost reaching the Indonesia border, Serikin is the buzz word for cheap merchandise hawked by Indonesians who cross the border with their goods during weekend. Perhaps the excitement is generated by the novelty of shopping on a border outpost with the distinct accent of Bahasa Indonesia, a language closely resembling the Bahasa Malaysia, spoken by the vendors. The approach to the market's car park is always jam packed. The large number of outside shoppers is evidenced by the huge car parking space just outside the shopping area, with many tour buses and vans occupying it. Car park touts patrol the vast ground directing traffic and collect toll of RM3 for each vehicle. Most drivers are willing to part with this small sum for a peace of mind, after all this is almost no-man’s-land where the arms of the law seldom reach. The Serikin public car park “Main street” Serikin is an alley about a few hundred metres long jam packed with wooden stalls lining on both sides. Among the popular merchandise are clothing like the sarongs, baju kebaya baju kurung (traditional Malay dress), imitation branded t-shirts, jeans, baseball caps, shoes, belts, watches, scarves, shawls. There are also household items like stoves, ovens, kitchen utensils, curtains, decorative items, rattan furnitures and rattan mats. Fruits and vegetables are also on sales here, with some exotic looking fruits not normally found in Sarawak. Some eating stalls at the entrance sell Kuching’s perennial favorite food like kolo mee and chicken rice (halal). Huge open air shopping in Serikin It can be a hot and sweaty experience shopping in this crowded market which is why it is advisable to reach the place early in the morning before the heat of the day takes over. Most travel agencies have this tour though many would prefer to rent a car and drive the scenic road where there are several tempting options to consider: a side trip to the bustling town of Bau for a nice lunch at the numerous food courts there, or a visit to the Fairy Caves and the Wind Caves, all of which are very near to Serikin. The smaller vegetable market outside Serikin There is a smaller vegetable market about 3 kilometres outside of Serikin where some interesting fruits and green are on sales by the local farmers. Sometimes there is even the fat wriggling sago worms or larvas, purportedly with medicinal values. This is a worthwhile place to stop before reaching Serikin or on the way back.

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Sago Worms

Not something that you will find in a normal restaurant in Borneo but the sago worm is a delicacy eaten by some indgenous groups in Borneo. It is especially famous among the Kadazandusun in Sabah, and the Melanau in Sarawak. However, it is not exclusive to Borneo, as it is also eaten by the people of New Guinea and Ecuador.

The sago worm, or sago grub, is the larvae of the Sago Palm Weevil. The sago palm tree is chopped down and the trunk is left to rot. After a few weeks, stripping off the bark and breaking open the trunk reveals dozens of palm weevils and their larvae. The larvae feeds on the starch of the sago palm. The adults are reddish-brown in colour with a snout and are smaller than the larvae.

The larvae are then collected to be eaten. You can either eat it raw or  cook it first. I tried both. First, we washed the larvae to clean it from the sago palm. The rotting palm stinks a bit, but the larvae itself has no smell. As you can see from the pictures, the larvae is creamy white and looks like a fat worm. It has a small, brown head that is hard and cannot be eaten. So, hold the larvae’s fat body, and then twist off the head. Throw away the inner parts of the larvae by flinging it away. It can be eaten, but it doesn’t taste nice. The larvae can then be eaten. It has been described as tasting like chicken or beef, but to me, there was no taste. It just felt kind of chewy, like eating mussels.

If eating raw larvae is too much for you, you can taste the ones that have been fried. Just heat the wok and put the larvae in and add in some salt. You don’t need oil, as the sago worm has plenty of oil in its body. In fact, as the wok gets hotter, the worms sometimes explode from the oil that bubbles out of their body. Even after frying it, it still doesn’t taste like meat. Someone described it as tasting like mushy corn. To make it even more delicious, you can add onion and other stuff.

Well, at least it’s good for you. The sago worm is said to contain more iron and vitamin B than beef or chicken, and it was a good source of protein for the local people who eat sago starch as their main food since the starch is almost all carbohydrate only.

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Legendary Bujang Senang

The name given by Orang Iban,Bujang Senang is legendary crocodile.
Bujang Senang most feared terror and attacks against human,berserk and devour human around Sungai Batang Lupar. Croc legend Bujang Senang is crocodile species Crocodylus porosus and measuring 20 feet long and has a white stripe on his back. Crocodiles are said rampant in this river since, 1941. The story of the male crocodile was regular bandied population local.

Bujang Senang Origin Glad :
Bujang Senang crocodile said to incarnate Iban warrior named Simalungun. He killed and cursed be a crocodile and he vowed to kill all the generations mistreat them. Simalungun is a Iban warrior known around Skrang river, Sarawak. His greatness is during the expedition Mengayau (Head Hunter) his enemy and the enemies not only a little bit has been killed by him.His greatness is not only Skrang River, but also in river Lupar trunk. Simalungun  enemies believe that he has the knowledge tanks that are not translucent brown, and kidnapping his wife so secret immunity Simalungun can be found.
Dilemma between tribes and the pride and love, come to Batang Lupar Simalungun hoping he can free his wife and killing her kidnapper. But his wife died by spear when she immediately released, while Simalungun tooth and nail with the enemy until Lupar river trunk. Enemies have learned Simalungun weakness immunity destroyed if he was in
river waters.
They lance Simalungun struck and impaled by his enemies. body Simalungun and his wife left until submerged deck on the river stem the tide Lupar.Lucky the deity who gave miracle on again Lungu poured over his body and magical his wife, and his arrival tide Lungu and his wife turned into a huge crocodile which has a white stripe behind to haunt the descendants of the killers Stick around Lupar. So born Bujang Senang, as is known. Easy self-named Senang Name in conjunction with Senang River, one of Batang Lupar branch where crocodiles Bujang Senang the legends often found.

Legendary Bujang Senang : Sungga River, Batang Lupar, 1982 :
Bangan anak Pali has been appointed as chieftain at Rumah Paliby the resident Sri Pali Aman.Two days before the appointment
official in their longhouses, he and brother, Kebir,intends to find sustenance living around Batang Lupar.Down the river to the downstream direction, they went into the Sungga River, one of the major branches of the Batang Lupar and start looking shrimp.By using a rake (a container made ​​of cane), their levels of the river along the waist and scoop shrimp.It's already noon a bird name Embuas in Iban Language.(kingfisher), sudden passing them.Kebir feel uneasy, because crossing embuas mean something bad will happen. Kebir call his brother up to the cliff, but insisted Bangan Chieftain shrimp continue searching.
Penghulu Bangan began to turn toward brother and flush water through the waist when he stepped on something at the bottom of the murky river.“Nama utai tok, baka batang…(what is this thing, like a stick out)" Kebir had just wanted to reply to the words of his brother w a loud splash strike.Penghulu Bagan disappeared from view. A few seconds later, a large crocodile embossed with corpses Gigantic Penghulu Bagan in his jaw.

Kebir continued to plunge and embrace the great crocodile tail in order to save his brother, but to no avail. Kebir realize that crocodile white striped back, length straight home with bad news.Search operations continued for 5 days with the police and the Wildlife participate. Atmosphere surrounding the longhouse sad when corpse brought back only Penghulu Bagan top only.No signs of crocodiles as well as the remnants of bodies were found.

Legendary Bujang Senang : Stirau River, Batang Lupar 1984.

Badong Anak Apong,from Rumah Nyawin not far from the River Stirau, Batang Lupar.

shrimp catch is busy when a large crocodile devours him and observed some of the villagers. Crocodile is seen a tendency to exaggerate Badong before disappearing corpses in the river. Witnesses said the width of the big crocodiles and some drums behind the white line. Efforts were continued and the victim was found 2 days later not far from the scene. Hunting operations run more but no arrests were made.

Lagendary Bujang Senang : Batang Lupar 1987.

A bird "Embuas" crossing when Berain Anak Tungging being dipped in the river bed of clay to cover the holes in the boat. Once completed, Berain want to return to big banks when a crocodile pulled into the river and this incident witnessed his nephew.With the information same as before, the whole Batang Lupar locals fear with the name of the legendary crocodile Bujang Senang.Tuai rumah ( Longhouse chief ) Rumah Tuah, Tuah anak Tunchun believe that this crocodile Bujang Senang indeed a pleasure and crocodiles the same kill his brother,Inchi Anak Tunchun in year 1962.He was confident that the curse is true and the crocodile is an entity that haunted. He said all the victims involved as brother,Penghulu Bagan ,Badong and Berain directly related and this is not disputed.

By 1989, numerous reports in the press local newspaper featuring stories the frequent appearance of large crocodiles around in Batang Samarahan and Batang Sadong,seems to reflect something will happen. There are many stories, such as the so-called Bujang Senang has been in the rivers to settle his vendetta along other crocodiles.

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